The union makes Iris

About four years ago, at the premises of the former Malhas Eical, a new dyeing shop was born, in an entrepreneurial impulse that has at its genesis two companies linked to the meshes: NGS Malhas and Gabritex. A growing project that employs about 70 people and already dyes and finishes 10 tons of mesh per day.

Both NGS and Gabritex were customers of Eical Knitwear and with the end of the company decided to move to the dyeing business.

“At the time, Eical was our supplier of finishes and dyeing and with its bankruptcy we saw that we had a problem to continue to grow. We needed to do something and that was going to be a dye shop. The opportunity was presented and we were able to make the acquisition, “José Quintas, administrator of NGS Malhas, told Jornal Têxtil in an article published in the September issue.

‘NGS was Eical’s main customer, then we were – almost 60% of the production was of the two companies. We had everything to succeed, “added Domingos Santos, administrator of Gabritex.

Currently, 70% of the company’s production of dyeing and finishing is to serve NGS and Gabritex, with the remaining 30% being services rendered to customers such as Cordeiro, Campos & Ca, Pedrosa & Rodrigues, Malhinter and Joaps Malhas, among others.

«We treat special knitwear, noble products that are very expensive and difficult to work with. We have articles that cost 50 times the cotton price or even more. They are very own products, special and even different from the traditional, like lyocell, blends of wool and silk. Then we have the most common products, such as viscose and cotton. We make many special and functional finishes, for example the high dry, moisture management, antibacterial, hydrophobic finishes, with aloe vera … “, Iris told Eduardo Teixeira, General Director of Iris.

The company continues to make investments, having in the last two years acquired two sample machines and one run, but the goals are to continue to grow, though with feet set on the ground. “We would like to renovate the machine park for special finishes,” confessed Eduardo Martins, who has under his eyes “special machines in the air, which perform the fibrillation and defibrillation of lyocell, finishes to break knits, to release by the”, pointed . However, in terms of capacity, “we do not want to increase much more than two or three tons, maximum maximum of 15 tons / day”, emphasizes the Director General.

The year 2016 was a year of growth, with Iris attracting new customers, bringing turnover to 3.63 million euros, compared to 3.4 million euros in 2015. “This year is still going to be better. In the first six months we were 340,000 euros more than last year in billing, which is equivalent to a 15% increase. I expect to reach 4 million euros this year. It’s my goal, “he told Jornal Têxtil.

Eduardo Martins

The dyeing and finishing company has also managed to optimize the resources. “In addition to the academic training, dyeing requires a lot of experience and aptness for this branch – it has a lot of artist and detail. Sometimes a small difference in pH, in temperature, is the difference between getting well or getting sick. These details are not learned, it is with intuition, with practice. Before they used much the colorimeter to make corrections, now practically we do not use it. The experience, the intuition and the detail is that they lead to a coach going the right way or the wrong way, “said Eduardo Martins. As a result of these adjustments, “last year we saved 250,000 euros in chemicals, reduced quality-related costs and, consequently, reduced energy consumption per kilogram of mesh produced. It was more than half a million euros, “he said.

The efficiency of the company has proved to be a competitive advantage, admitted Nuno Cunha e Silva, NGS Malhas administrator. “We spend much less product, we are much more productive, we dye at first. The know-how is very important, “he said, adding that Iris represents today” the quick response, doing well. We are fast, reactive, we have a good product, we dominate the process. “

NGS Knitwear harnesses …

This speed of execution of Iris follows one of the pillars of NGS Malhas’ own growth, which from the beginning, in 1998, bet on a business model based on the rapid delivery and the development of collections. “We had different products. I arrived at the dry cleaners and they often had never even dyed this product, “Nuno Cunha e Silva told Jornal Têxtil.

Today, the company, which employs 24 people, develops products every day, which guaranteed its entry into Première Vision Paris in 2014 and international clients such as Max Mara and Coach, which contribute to the 30% export. France, USA and UK are the main markets.

“Our added value as a company is speed and work with value added products, with wool, silks, cashmere, blends,” said José Quintas

As short-term projects, NGS Knitwear, which in 2016 registered a turnover of about 10 million euros, is moving to an area of ​​3,000 square meters socks walls with Iris. “Today there are no companies with the concepts of old, vertical and large, with thousands of workers. Today we have companies that are much more flexible, smaller, more versatile, with other motivation even to employees, “said José Quintas.

José Quintas e Nuno Cunha e Silva

… and Gabritex too

In the same complex where Iris works and where the NGS has just been installed Malhas labora, a year ago, GBTX, a high-end clothing confection that emerged on the initiative of Gabritex to respond to another type of customer other than the Sports clothing.
Domingos Santos

“I felt the need to captivate these customers, who are brands with higher value added and more technical and more expensive materials,” said Domingos Santos, administrator of GBTX and Gabritex.

In just a few months, GBTX has been able to bring together a group of high-end customers, backed by a team of 70 people to meet the demanding demands.

In the second half of 2016 alone, GBTX made 600 thousand euros. “This year we should reach 2 million euros”, anticipated the administrator, who shares with José Barbosa the company in both companies.

But the creation of GBTX had yet another goal in mind: the launch of a brand of its own. Averse was born earlier this year, with its “dare to be different” philosophy – the motto of its collection for spring / summer 2018. “I wanted a brand that was intermediate, sportswear for everyday life,” said Domingos Santos.

Domingos Santos

The ambitions also include having a store for Averse, probably located in a shopping center in Porto. “But only one and then sell to multi-brand stores,” said the administrator.

The experience with Gabritex, which employs 120 people and, in 2016, has a turnover of more than 12 million euros, has allowed us to move forward with more certainty in the market and to replicate the initiatives that had a positive effect on the business. “The trump card of Gabritex is strict cost control, in the management of stocks,” said Domingos Santos. “We created GBTX a year ago and are following the same model,” he told Jornal Têxtil.

reference: Portugal Textil

Leave a Reply